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There’s a reason why the oval cut diamond has become a tried and true favorite among fashion icons like Blake Lively and Kourtney Kardashian. This pretty diamond shape is as alluring as they come, offering plenty of light-catching facets that create ample brilliance and sparkle. But this shape comes with one unique visual characteristic, which some consider a downside — the bow tie effect.
What Is the Bow Tie Effect?
Essentially, the bow tie effect refers to a dark area within the diamond’s facets that can be seen at a certain angle. Unlike the other facets of the stone, a few of those deeper center facets won’t reflect light, causing a dark void at the center. Typically, it manifests in a dark spot at the center or the “belly” of the diamond, creating a dark area with two triangles that look like the shape of a bow tie.
What Diamond Shapes Have the Bow Tie Effect?
Unfortunately, this effect is largely unavoidable in fancy cut, elongated stones — especially ovals, pears and marquise cut diamonds. The ultra-popular princess cut and round engagement ring settings typically do not come with a high risk of bow tie, which is one of the reasons why they’re consistently at the top of the list of most popular shapes.
But if oval is your shape of choice, don’t let the bow tie deter you! You can still find an exceptional oval ring that includes plenty of sparkle and minimal darkness.
Shop Quality Oval Engagement Ring Settings
How Can You Avoid the Bow Tie?
If you have the idea of looking into your sparkly stone and constantly seeing a bow tie deep within it, there are a few things to consider when choosing oval engagement ring settings. These clues can help steer you toward a quality oval diamond engagement ring:
- Pay Attention to Cut Grade — According to the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), the quality of the diamond’s cut will influence the prominence of the bow tie. Make sure to choose a diamond that has been cut well and aim for a cut grade of very good or above on the GIA’s Cut Grading System.
- Go with a North-South Orientation — Although it’s relatively rare to see an oval diamond set in an East-West (horizontal) orientation, this is definitely something to avoid if you want to ensure that you don’t get a big bow tie in your diamond. Setting the diamond in a North-South (vertical) orientation is less likely to highlight those dark spots at the center of the stone.
- Try Different Lighting — The most important rule of shopping when you’re looking for a bow tie free stone is to inspect the stones in person in a variety of different lighting atmospheres. Most jewelry stores are lit to ensure that you can see every quality — good or bad — but some may have softer or diffused light so you won’t be able to see the bow tie until you take the stone home.
- Consider the ASET Test (With a Grain of Salt) — The ASET (Angular Spectrum Evaluation Tool) may be able to help you find an oval diamond without a bow tie. Essentially, this test measures how a stone interacts with the light around it. When you request an ASET test from your jeweler, they will produce a color-coded image that can help you determine from which angle each facet gathers light. In images of stones with prominent bow ties, the center will appear as dark triangles. Just make sure to take this tool with a grain of salt, as it’s not used by the GIA when evaluating diamonds.
- Embrace the Bow Tie — It’s important to remember that virtually all oval, pear and marquise cut stones will come with a bow tie effect to some degree. Just remember that it’s not all bad! A little bit of darkness at the center of the diamond can enhance contrast and even make your rock look multidimensional and mesmerizing.
Explore Exquisite Round Engagement Ring Settings
Purchase From a Verragio Authorized Retailer
Always work with an authorized Verragio retailer. Our professional jewelers will help you source a quality oval diamond for one of our stunning oval ring settings — with a minimal bow tie effect that will provide a brilliant stone.
If you want to avoid the bow tie effect entirely, we recommend choosing a round diamond engagement ring setting instead. Learn more about oval vs. round diamonds to help you decide on the perfect engagement ring.